To convert a Normal Unique Armor to its Exceptional equivalent: Use a Shael, a Tal and a perfect Diamond in the Horadric Cube with the item you wish to transmute. To convert an Exceptional Rare weapon to its Elite equivalent: Use an Um, a Fal and a perfect Sapphire in the Horadric Cube with the item you wish to transmute. To convert an Exceptional Rare armor to its Elite equivalent: Use a Pul, a Ko and a perfect Amethyst in the Horadric Cube with the item you wish to transmute. To convert a Normal Rare weapon to its Exceptional equivalent: Use an Amn, an Ort and a perfect Sapphire in the Horadric Cube with the item you wish to transmute. To convert a Normal Rare armor to its Exceptional equivalent: Use a Thul, a Ral and a perfect Amethyst in the Horadric Cube with the item you wish to transmute. There is a +7 modifier when a rare or unique is upgraded from exceptional to elite. There is a +5 modifier to the base level requirement when transmuting a normal rare/unique to the exceptional item type. 
Depending on the base item, you could wind up with an elite armor with a lower or only modestly higher defense than its exceptional counterpart. If someone was upgrading Steelclash to a Dragon Shield, it would have a base defense between 59-67 and then add its Enhanced Defense attribute based on that.
When transmuting an armor, a random value of base defense will be chosen within the range of its item type. This will work on Orbs and Wands, although it would be of no benefit to do so. Armor refers to the following: Body Armor, Helmet, Gloves, Belt, Boots or Shield. If the item was ethereal, it will remain so after being transmuted. For example, Greyform will not become The Spirit Shroud, but will be a Ghost Armor with the properties of Greyform. 
Uniques will retain their properties, their sockets and the gems, runes and jewels used, if any. Unique items can be upgraded to exceptional base types in any game mode, but can only be upgraded to elite base types in Single Player or on the Ladder of. Rares may be upgraded to exceptional or elite base types in any game mode. Furthermore, Rune Words are counted as Unique Items, though they cannot be upgraded nonetheless. This can be done with Rare or Unique armor or weapons, and can extend the usefulness of some items to higher levels. 
Upgrading or "upping" in Diablo II: Lord of Destruction changes an item's base type from basic to exceptional, or from exceptional to elite.
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